Long Term Review: New Balance Accelerate Cap

When i wander around shop by shop to find a new pair of running shoes, my eyes accidentally stuck in this cap. The (almost) plain design and blue color tempted me to see and check the price and damn.....50% discount label and their bargain price its too good to let it pass.

The cap made from 100% polyester and had un-regular stitching design. The cap had a reflector brand and stripe printed on front panel. Otherwise had a ventilation on top. One interested feature was the fastener its little bit stretchy so i assume this cap can flexy enough to stay still without make me dizzy. I had concerned about the sweatband, it look like can't withstand with amount of sweat and the reflector print look like doesn't last long. I hope i'm wrong.

After almost 1 year use it on run session, its start showing a disintegrate in reflector. Maybe one day the logo and the stripe will completely tear off. Other than that, this cap its good to use it, didnt felt hot, no suddenly loose and quick dry.

In short, its good to use this cap in running session.

Run On!

  

The Second Hand 18650 Battery With Box

Melanjutkan artikel kemarin, headlamp yang saya beli tidak termasuk charger dan battery-nya. Awalnya tertarik untuk beli battery 18650 yang murah meriah, hanya Rp 10.000 dengan label ultrafire, kapasitas yang tidak jelas dan sudah pasti tidak original. Coba cari harga battery 18650 yang original, harga per buahnya ternyata lumayan mahal, sekitar Rp 28.000 per buah untuk yang berkapasitas 2200 mAh.

Tak sengaja, saya lihat ada yang jual battery 18650 ex-bongkaran battery laptop. Kondisinya menurut seller masih ok, tegangan 3.7 V dengan kapasitas murni 2200 mAh. Harganya? Hanya Rp 10.000 per buah. Not bad lah untuk battery 18650 rechargeable 2200 mAh bekas yang masih berfungsi. Masalah life cycle-nya yang mungkin pendek juga tidak terlalu perlu dipikirkan, dengan harga Rp 10.000 per buah anggap saja seperti membeli battery biasa.

Akhirnya saya beli 4 buah battery 18650 ex-bongkaran battery laptop. Battery-nya masih berfungsi dengan normal dan kondisi fisiknya pun masih mulus. Selanjutnya, supaya mudah dan aman dalam menyimpan dan membawanya, saya juga beli kotak plastik khusus untuk battery 18650. Kotaknya terbuat dari plastik, transparan, ada klip serta hanger untuk digantung.

Headlamp ada, battery siap pakai, mari keluar dan berkeringat!

Run On!

Review: Cheap LED Headlamp

Masih terlihat normal kan? :D

Beberapa hari lalu, akhirnya datang kesempatan untuk lari di malam hari sekaligus mencoba headlamp. Saat dipakai dalam kondisi statis, headlamp ini tidak terasa berat di kepala. Penampilan pemakainya pun tidak terlalu aneh. Setelah pasang battery, setting strap, dan sudut lampu saya siap untuk lari di malam hari.

Cahaya yang dihasilkan dari headlamp ini berwarna putih, fokus, lebar sinar serta output-nya saya rasa cukup untuk digunakan lari di malam hari. Headlamp ini terasa solid saat digunakan, ratchet untuk menahan sudut lampu berfungsi baik, tidak ada bunyi dan lampu tetap pada sudut yang sudah diatur sebelumnya. 

Fokus dan cukup terang cahayanya

Setelah dipakai lari selama kurang lebih 1 jam, sinar yang dihasilkan headlamp ini stabil, kepala tidak terasa panas (walaupun housing lampu saat saya pegang terasa lumayan panas), namun ada sedikit rasa tidak nyaman di bagian atas kepala. Sepertinya karena strap bagian atas menggesek-gesek kepala saat saya berlari. Next time akan saya lepas strap di bagian atas dan lihat bagaimana hasilnya. 2 battery 18650 2200A yang digunakan juga belum habis daya-nya.

Overall, saya senang dengan design dan performa dari headlamp ini. Bang for the bucks!

Update: Setelah dicoba melepas strap bagian atas, ternyata headlamp bergoyang-goyang saat digunakan. Walaupun strap utama sudah dikencangkan, headlamp tetap bergoyang, sepertinya karena bobot headlamp ini cukup berat. 

Run On!

Monstercross Bike

Did you remember this formula?

n+1

n is number of bikes you have. So...one bike its never enough. Like cars or motorcycles, bicycle today divided into many categories, tour, road bike, MTB, hybrid etc. Each other had a different purpose and different fun.

But...

Maybe you dreamed there's one bike can rule them all..

Bike capable enough to shred....

Fast enough to wave in traffic, when..

Versatile enough to carry your things..

Some of you will tell me...i know the bike like that, it's called hybrid bike..

Is it true? Or wrong?

Well.."hybrid" terms alone had many interpretation. In bike..hybrid terms refer to MTB frame with 700c wheels, but...they also called flatbar roadbike with hybrid too..hmm..how about cyclocross bike? You can't called it a roadbike...since the geometry close to MTB, but you can't called it a MTB too since the component close to roadbike...i think it's a hybrid too.

Back to topic...if you dreamed there's one bike can rule them all..you're not alone. There's a people share the same dream and build a bike called "monstercross". A monster cross bike is not something you’ll find in the showroom of your local bicycle shop. Nor is it something you can order online. The Monstercrosser Facebook page (it's not exist anymore, try go to monstercross news page) definition is as follows – “that sweet middle ground between a cyclocross bike and a 29’er that makes it the best all around bike one can build”. Monster Cross isn’t the middle ground between the Road and the Mountain, It is the bridge that allows you to enjoy both sides. This is a bike that can handle the abuse and terrain of single track riding in all conditions, while still feeling snappy and quick when the rubber meets the pavement. 

Note the key word in that quote – BUILD. For this type of bicycle, every part and component needs to be specified, whilst considering issues such as compatibility between components. In essence, a complete custom bicycle. If you googling it..you can see many monstercross specification..but...the basic is big off-road tyres + rigid frame + dropbar. Like a rigid mountain bike, the monstercross relies on the large volume tires for suspension in addition to grip. The bigger the tire, the more supple the casing and the better is it for all-day comfort and trail-shredding tenacity.

Monstercross it's very personal..if you read the description.. you can find many mix and match parts to build with. You can use any wheel diameter as long as they wide enough to fit with big off-road tyres. How about the frame? The clue was "rigid" so you can use any type of frame as long as they can swallow a big off-road tyres. Last..dropbar it's a must. It's for comforts and of course..a speed too.

If you still have a room for one bike, why don't try build a monstercross? :)

Source:

http://www.singletracks.com

http://www.themountainbikelife.com

http://bicycletimesmag.com

http://www.bikeradar.com

http://www.gravelcyclist.com
http://www.bgcycles.com

http://www.handbuiltbicyclenews.com

Ride On!

Chamois Pad History

If you have been cycling for a while you know how important padded bike shorts are. The cycling shorts you wear should be quite tight, yet comfortable. They should not be too restrictive or too loose. They should protect your legs when or if they rub on the saddle. There should be a comfortable amount of padding and the fabric should be able to abrade without tearing. Also they should have elastic to keep the shorts in place around your legs and not bunch up.

From sheep to deer to a fiber manufactured in Japan, cyclists have been putting some strange stuff in personal places over the years. Mauro Coccia (President of clothing manufacturer, De Marchi) walked us through the evolution of the chamois.

Early 1940s

Chamois. The mountain goat that got us to where we are today

Chamois were added to bike-specific shorts as several companies in Europe started making jerseys and shorts designed solely for cyclists. “That was the golden age of cycling,” Coccia says, “when people start to ride a bicycle as a job.” Because it was becoming a profession as well as a hobby, cycling clothing needed to be defined. That’s when bike shorts—made of cotton or wool—began to be cut to optimize cycling movements, and a pad made of sheep leather was added to the inside of the shorts to prevent chafing.

“Wool and cotton were itchy and caused friction,” Coccia says. Leather, while not exactly comfortable, significantly reduced chafing. Early chamois creams were also invented— but rather than applying them to the skin, they were used to help soften the leather. For your information, "chamois" term is from antelope species they use their leather to made it. The name of the antelope stuck, and today's modern chamois retain the leather's name, despite being made from a host of synthetic materials. 

Late 1940s

Sheep leather was fine, but manufacturers wanted it to be even softer and more supple, so they upgraded to deer. Since demand for cycling gear wasn’t as high as it is today, it was possible to get enough deer leather in Europe for their manufacturing needs—plus, since the shorts only needed small pieces for the chamois, it was possible to work with the scraps. Coccia recalls that at De Marchi, they often used the scraps from auto manufacturers who were using deer leather in their car interiors—and so the leather piles grew in the garage as Coccia’s grandmother cut them into chamois shapes.

1960s

In the 60s, spandex was introduced to the world—which meant that cycling apparel began to move away from natural fibers, and integrate some synthetics. Still, the leather chamois continued to come standard. Coccia notes that any comfort gains in the chamois were minimal. “Chamois then weren’t padded,” he says. “They were just there for the friction fighting.”

1980s 

Chamois technology finally began to evolve the mid ‘80s. A coagulated microfiber was invented in Japan and brought to Europe, where, according to Coccia, cycling apparel makers seized on the new fabric as a way to add foam padding to the chamois and ditch the leather. As the new, less-expensive foam chamois took off, a new type of chamois cream was developed to help eliminate friction and discomfort on the skin, rather than simply softening the hard leather.

2000s 

As more and more women got on bikes, it became obvious that men and women have different “parts” down there, and need different styles of chamois. So, many chamois designers began to adjust their designs to make male- and female-specific styles: men’s chamois typically feature deeper channels, while the women’s tend to have wider rear areas. Small tweaks are continuously being made to chamois to improve fit and style, as well as more technical aspects like ventilation and moisture-wicking through perforations in the foam.

Source:

http://www.bicycling.com

http://www.icebike.org
http://livehealthy.chron.com
http://blog.artscyclery.com


Ride On!

Unboxing: Cheap LED Headlamp

Setelah mampu menyelesaikan sesi lari 10km, terpikirkan untuk memberikan hadiah kepada diri sendiri untuk merayakan pencapaian ini :D. Karena menjelang bulan puasa serta ada niat untuk night run, akhirnya saya memutuskan untuk memberikan hadiah headlamp kepada diri sendiri :).

Wise budget dan melihat peruntukannya (tampaknya saya tidak akan sering lari di malam hari) akhirnya saya memlih headlamp di bawah ini: 

Spesifikasinya (salinan dari Google) sebagai berikut:

1. Cree LED XM-L T6 (max 2200 lumens)
2. 90 Degree Rotation
3. Comfortable Straps
4. Aero Grade Aluminum Body
5. 18650 Battery
6. One button switch : High/Medium/Flashing/OFF
7. Zoomable: Zoom In & Zoom Out

Unit datang hanya dengan menggunakan box, tidak ada buku manual, apalagi kartu garansi, hahahaha. Kenapa pilih headlamp ini? Saya suka design-nya, tidak terlalu heboh, kompartemen battery yang terpisah membuat distribusi beban lebih merata dan harganya cukup terjangkau (Rp 58.000 tanpa charger dan battery).

Kemasan sangat sederhana

Setelah saya coba pasangkan dengan 2 battery 18650, headlamp bisa menyala, strap-nya bisa diatur sesuai kebutuhan, serta fitur lampu berfungsi normal. Cahaya yang dihasilkan cukup terang, namun lensa yang digunakan membuat cahaya menjadi fokus (sebetulnya kurang ok untuk digunakan lari di malam hari, lebih baik cahaya-nya menyebar).

Headlamp menyala, mode High

Overall, bobotnya lumayan juga, semoga tidak bikin pusing atau sakit leher saat dipakai lari nanti. Tunggu review-nya lebih lanjut di blog ini.

Run On!

2 years 10km

Saya ingat, awal mulai rutin latihan lari itu pada bulan puasa 2 tahun yang lalu. Bulan ini puasa dimulai, jadi kurang lebih sudah 2 tahun saya menekuni olahraga lari. Saya mulai lari dengan jarak hanya 1km, dengan hasil otot betis kram, nyeri di kaki dan pinggang. Nafas dan jantung tidak ada masalah karena saya sudah terbiasa bersepeda sebelum mulai menekuni olahraga lari.

Tidak terasa sudah 2 tahun berlalu, jarak tempuh lari 1km sekarang sudah berganti menjadi 10km. Cukup lama waktu yang diperlukan sampai saya sanggup lari dengan jarak 10km. Hal tersebut karena saya tidak peduli dengan pace dan berusaha sebisa mungkin menghindari cedera akibat berlari. Saya lari mau mencari sehat dan bersenang-senang, bukan prestasi dan gengsi yang saya kejar.

Alhamdulillah, selama 2 tahun ini tidak ada cedera yang signifikan. Semakin lama saya semakin tahu batas-batas tubuh saya dan mulai bisa meningkatkan pain threshold saya sedikit demi sedikit. Teknik-teknik dalam berlari juga semakin banyak saya dapatkan dan praktekkan. Semakin lama, sesi lari yang awalnya terasa penuh siksaan menjadi terasa menyegarkan dan memuaskan.

Saya meningkatkan jarak secara gradual tergantung kondisi fisik. Pada tahun pertama, saya menetapkan jarak tempuh maksimal 5km. Pada tahun kedua, target saya 10km dan sudah tercapai pada bulan April. Target berikutnya adalah half marathon (21,10km). Saya tidak yakin bisa mencapainya pada tahun ini, tapi mungkin baru akan tercapai pada tahun depan (2019).

1 hal yang memacu saya untuk terus menambah jarak berlari adalah video race footage dari UTMT (Ultra Trail World Tour) di Youtube. Pemandangan yang indah ditambah dengan fakta-fakta baru dan aneh bagi saya (seperti mulai start pada tengah malam, rute lomba melintasi padang pasir dll) membuat saya terpukau dan berharap suatu saat saya juga bisa berlari seperti mereka.  

Secara sederhana, ini log saya dari tahun pertama berlari sampai dengan tahun kedua:

Tahun pertama:

Jarak tempuh maksimal: 5km

Penambahan rute: 100-500m per bulan

Peralatan lari yang digunakan: spibelt, water belt, calf compression sleeve, headband dan kacamata

Sepatu: New Balance 580v2 dan New Balance 880v5

Tahun kedua:

Jarak tempuh maksimal: 10km

Penambahan rute: 1km per bulan

Peralatan lari yang digunakan: hydration running vest, topi dan kacamata

Sepatu: New Balance 880v5 dan Puma Descendant v2

Sepatu New Balance 580v2 sudah pensiun karena rusak, sedangkan New Balance 880v5 sampai saat ini sudah memiliki jarak tempuh sekitar 500km dan Puma Descendant v2 sampai saat ini sudah memiliki jarak tempuh sekitar 200km.

Calf compression sleeve awalnya menjadi peralatan wajib saat berlari, namun saat ini betis saya sudah tidak terasa sakit untuk digunakan berlari 10km tanpa Calf compression sleeve. Namun, kadang masih saya gunakan pada sesi awal menambah jarak tempuh berlari.

Dengan jarak tempuh lari 10km, water belt 3 botol kecil tidak mampu membawa air dengan jumlah yang saya butuhkan. Water belt ini pensiun dan digantikan dengan hydration vest, lebih mampu membawa air dengan jumlah banyak dan juga bisa mendistribusi beban lebih merata di badan.

Run On!

Outsmart The High Price of Running Shoes

Lot of people say, running its one of the simple yet cheap sport/exercise. You just need t-shirt, pants, shoes and ready to run. That three item was common things we already have and wear it everyday, so it doesn't cost you more to start running right? 

Not totally right

When you can wear regular shirt and short/long pants to run, it doesn't apply with shoes. To prevent injury and make your run distance further and faster, you need a specific running shoes. This when the headache begin.

If you shopping either in online or offline store, maybe you will surprise to see how costly pairs of running shoes. The price range from Rp 300.000 up to Rp 2.000.000 or maybe bigger than that. In their entry/cheap running shoes, you will get regular running shoes with minimum feature. Shoes in that range place in training category. Maybe its a good start to buy entry level running shoes, even though its hard to find it nowadays. If you can find it, you lucky enough.

In last few months when i hunt my 3rd running shoes, i saw many running shoes had a regular price start from Rp 500.000....wow...i'm sure that price can make a lot of people failed to start running. If the price doesn't enough to worry you, you will hold your breath again when lot of folks said you better change your running shoes after 500km to prevent injury because of worn shoes. 

Gasp!

High price shoes with short time to use, you say running its a cheap sport???????

To make your life easier, here's a few tips to get a good running shoes with decent price:

1. Go online

I saw many seller in marketplace sold original running shoes up to 70% below the market price. I assume maybe they got some reject or can buy directly from the factory.

2. Splurge in festive or National day
Lot of retails gave you big discount in festive or national day, from 10%-70%

3. Window shopping regularly
Nowadays, Sport Station have a program called "Last Call Clearance", they display many of shoes categorized in every size, and each have a tag labeled normal price and discount price so you don't need to ask the salesperson when you interested in one of them.


Few things to consider before you hunt the discount shoes:

1. Shops discount their stuff mostly because: A. Run out of complete size, B. New model arrive and current model still lay in shop. C.  The stuff had a low sales (uncommon colors, design etc)

2. Better had a maximum budget before hunt, sometimes you will tempted to splurge because of that shoes fancy and looking good on your foot

3. Check the market price for the model shoes you hunt

4. Patience


That's all, happy hunting.


Run On!

Stand Pedalling (1st update)

Standing is a cheap and effective way to boost your performance today, for free. Whether you want to climb better on the road or navigate tricky root sections on local trails, you’ll need to get out of the saddle.

Why stand? 

When you ride, you can sit or stand to shift the load to different muscles. When you stand, you can use your body weight to turn the pedals over athletically as you go up and over tough terrain. If you have had to walk up a climb on a road bike or had your front wheel unweight on a steep trail, then it is worth practising standing to give yourself options.

In 2008, Professor Ernst Hansen discovered that road cyclists were better off remaining seated until the gradient hit 10%. From then on standing became more effective in terms of sustained power output, although the riders consumed 5% more oxygen when standing.

During short (less than 30 seconds) all-out bursts, peak power output has been measured at 25% greater when standing compared to sitting, but there is trade off. Research has shown that even at shallower gradients of around 4%, ascending at 19kmh while seated requires 10% less oxygen than when standing. That’s primarily because the body’s centre of mass is supported by the saddle, conserving energy. 

Efficiency, in the sense it is often used is not always desirable. Sometimes it is worth expending more energy for a short period to climb a hill rather than slogging at a low r.p.m. for a longer duration.

How do you stand?

When you stand, your goal is to ride in a straight line as you lean the bike back and forth. As your right foot reaches the bottom of its pedal stroke, you lean the bike to the left, and vice versa. Start off by doing these actions slowly up a gradual climb. Then begin adding speed.

When should you stand?

Bigger riders pay a higher price for elevating their bodies frequently and for extended periods. That may sound like a disadvantage for the big riders, but they typically also have better power seated than smaller riders. While body size will determine how much you stand to a degree, the terrain and event type is a bigger determinant. Smooth and high-speed criterium races require aerodynamics and, ideally, efficiency through smooth cornering. But you need to get out of the saddle to attack, stay on wheels and sprint.

Mountain bikers are in and out of their saddles constantly to be efficient and to let their bikes roll over terrain. Generally, fitter riders can stand more. For long rides or efforts, you’ll want to sit more and save standing for getting up steep sections or keeping the cranks turning as you start to fatigue. Often, road riders will sit and grind at cadences lower than 50 r.p.m. or even walk up steep grades rather than standing and shifting their weight side to side to essentially “walk on the bike.”

Source:
Canadian cycling June-july 2017
http://www.cyclist.co.uk/tutorials/183/should-you-sit-or-stand-when-climbing

Ride On!

The Right Time To Change Your Running Shoe

We’ve all heard of the recommendations by shoe companies and running stores about running shoes; when to replace and after 400-500 miles miles we should buy a new pair of running shoes to avoid injury. While most of the visible wear to a shoe occurs on the upper fabric and the “outsole,” the hard rubber bottom of a running shoe, the wear that most affects biomechanics occurs inside the midsole. The midsole is the thick layer of EVA foam that cushions impact and, in some cases, is designed to modulate your foot mechanics.

Many shoes have a “dual density midsole,” denoted by a gray block of denser foam under the arch. This medial wedge, as it is called in the shoe industry, is designed to resist pronation. While EVA foam is quite resilient, research shows that it still breaks down over the course of thousands of footstrikes.

Numbers wise, a good running shoe should last you between 400 and 600 miles, but your build, running style, surface and training load all factor in to what end of that range your shoes will fall. Smaller runners, or more efficient runners who are light on their feet, often won’t do as much damage to their shoe and a lot of times will be able to squeeze a little more mileage out of them. Bigger runners, or runners who pound the pavement with unforgiving force, will likely be at the lower end of the mileage range. Everyone’s different.

The Study and Research

In a fairly old study, Cook, Kester, and Brunet at Tulane University examined the degradation in mechanical shock absorption in a variety of different shoes. First, using a “running machine” which simulated the impact associated with running hundreds of miles in a pair of shoes, the researchers tested in a controlled way how the shock absorption changed over time. Then, they compared these artificially worn shoes to shoes worn by actual runners over an equivalent volume of running. 

In the machine-simulated running, shoes had decreased to 75% of their initial cushion after only 50 miles; this cushioning dropped to 67% after 150 miles and ultimately to 60% after 500 miles. The shoes worn by the real runners also declined in cushioning, following the same pattern of rapid decrease in cushion initially, tapering off and nearly leveling out at 500 miles of running. But when worn by real runners, the shoes only dropped to 80% of their initial cushioning.

In one of the few good studies on the subject, Kong, Candelaria, and Smith at the University of Texas at El Paso examined the changes in running mechanics after a group of 24 runners covered 200 miles over the course of their regular training.

The runners were split into three groups, each of which wore a different shoe—an air-cushioned shoe (Nike), a gel-cushioned shoe (ASICS), and a spring-cushioned shoe (Spira). The results highlight a few important findings. At the initial evaluation of running mechanics (before the 200 miles of training), there were no differences between the groups. There were only minor changes in running mechanics after the 200 miles of wear on the shoes and no changes in actual forces measured.


Warning Sign

Like any product used regularly, they will wear out eventually. How quickly this happens is determined by your mileage, body weight and foot type. Apart from keeping a mileage log, there are a few tell-tale signs to help you decide when to buy your next shoes: 

1. The outer sole has worn through to the white midsole

2. The midsole feels too soft and collapses easily under pressure. 
Press a thumb into the center of the shoe, where the midsole is. If the midsole feels tough and unyielding (rather than cushy with some "give"), then it may be time for a new pair.

3. The heel counter becomes mobile and less supportive

4. Your toes wear through the toe-box, and the shoe upper tears

5. One shoe sole becomes asymmetrically worn compared with the other

6. One or both shoes no longer stand up straight when placed on a flat surface

Otherwise, listen to your body. When the midsole of a shoe starts to break down it’s not supporting and protecting your foot, or the rest of your body, as well as it was when you first started running in it. How do you know when breakdown is occurring in a shoe? Easy. Your body will tell you. If you notice any mysterious new discomfort in your feet, legs, knees, hips or back, you probably need new shoes. Other indicators that your shoes are worn out are hot spots or blisters in unexpected places. That can mean your shoes have stretched and your feet are moving around too much.

Source:

https://runnersconnect.net
http://www.asics.com
http://running.competitor.com
http://greatist.com
https://www.rei.com

Run On!

Review: Promax Flatbar

Material: Aluminium Alloy

Clamp Diameter: 25.4

Width: 60cm

Use for: Browniee, a fixed gear bike

Recently, i had a fun rode fixed gear and the chopped flatbar from previous owner (width only 50cm) felt too narrow for me. I had a few ride with that and they are fun to wave around high traffic but i felt some pain in my shoulder after that. So, i think wider flatbar will solve this problem.

Color's option

After a few clicks on online marketplace, i bought Promax flatbar. Its very cheap, price only Rp 50.000, but sadly they don't have a black color, so i bought a gray to match it with my bike. When this stuff landed at home, i'm surprised with the wall thickness and weight.

it's very thick and felt heavy compared to my previous handlebar. Yes, my previous flatbar was chopped to 50cm width but that things made from steel. Except the wall thickness and weight, the shape is good, precise and finishing its match with the price. After installed it in Browniee, i took Browniee to rode and wider handlebar clearly solve my shoulder pain.

Browniee with promax flatbar

If you in tight budget to bought a flatbar and weight it's not an issue, i think promax flatbar its good thing to consider.

Ride On!

Bidon For Tools

Why?

• Aesthetic look..if you hate to see bags hanging around on your bike
• Save the nature...you can do it if you re-use your "beaten" bidon for tools pack
• Watertight/proof Packs for cheap...even a cheapest waterproof bags in the market can't beat the price of regular bidon

But...

You will hate it if you only had one/two bottle cage when you need to carry two bottle of water. Don't worry, you can put your bidon for tools in rear jersey pockets, it's still better than stuff it a tools separate in your back pocket.

DIY bidon for tools

Source:

https://www.lifehacker.com.au/2013/07/build-a-bike-sized-toolkit-out-of-water-bottles/

http://www.hargrovescycles.co.uk/bianchi-tool-case-67789.html

Ride On!

Honda Tiger Clutch Overhaul

Tahun ini, Honda Tiger saya akhirnya perlu ganti kampas kopling. Seingat saya ini ganti kampas kopling yang kedua kalinya sejak motor ini dibeli dari tahun 2005. Ini adalah komponen-komponen yang saya beli dan gunakan saat overhaul kopling di Honda Tiger:

Masukin gambar

1. Disc clutch friction, Daytona
2. Plate clutch, Honda genuine part
3. Spring clutch, Honda genuine part
4. Plate clutch pressure, Honda genuine part
5. Cable clutch, Honda genuine part
6. Oil, Prima XP
7.  Gasket right crankcase cover, Unknown brand

Komponen dengan harga paling mahal disini adalah Disc clutch friction, Daytona (Rp 120.000) dan yang termurah adalah Spring clutch, Honda genuine part (Rp 7500/buah). Setelah overhaul kopling, Proses penggantian gear lebih halus, snappy dan akselerasi terasa melonjak cukup signifikan dibandingkan saat belum overhaul kopling. 

NB: Disc clutch friction sengaja menggunakan Daytona karena penasaran dengan performanya. Awalnya Spring clutch juga mau menggunakan Daytona, tapi karena pertimbangan motor sering digunakan di jalan macet, akhirnya batal menggunakan Spring clutch Daytona.

Ride On!

As A Biker And Cyclist, I Hate Riding Behind Car

Riding menggunakan sepeda motor atau sepeda merupakan hiburan tersendiri bagi saya. Namun ada beberapa hal yang dapat membuat sesi berkendara saya menjadi menyebalkan, salah satunya adalah keberadaan mobil di depan saya. Ada beberapa hal yang membuat saya tidak suka dengan keberadaan mobil di depan saya saat sedang berkendara menggunakan sepeda ataupun sepeda motor:

1.Menggunakan kaca film dengan tingkat kegelapan melebihi aturan.

Ilustrasi kaca film

Mobil (baik yang beroda 4 maupun lebih seperti truk) yang menggunakan kaca film dengan tingkat kegelapan 70% (mengacu pada Surat Keputusan Menteri Perhubungan Nomor KM. 439/U/Phb-76 tentang Penggunaan Kaca Pada Kendaraan Bermotor) bagi saya tampak sebagai dinding berjalan. Saya tidak bisa melihat kondisi lalu lintas di depan mobil tersebut dan hal ini membuat saya tidak nyaman. Saya harus terus siaga  dengan tuas rem karena sulit membaca situasi kapan harus menurunkan kecepatan. Proses mengerem kendaraan pun tidak bisa bertahap karena selalu kaget saat lampu rem mobil didepan saya menyala. 

2. Pengendara mobil tidak tahu diri dengan lebar jalan yang dilalui.

Ilustrasi mobil melalui jalan yang sempit

GPS saat ini membuat proses mencari rute jalan yang tidak macet menjadi mudah. Namun sayangnya tidak ada informasi mengenai lebar jalan yang akan dilalui. Banyak jalan pintas yang lebarnya kurang dari 4 meter namun dilalui oleh mobil. Sudah sempit, ada polisi tidur ilegal, banyak tikungan dengan blind spot dan lebih konyol lagi jalan tersebut digunakan untuk 2 arah. Dengan kondisi tersebut. Mobil tentu saja menjadi hambatan bagi saya saat berkendara di jalan tersebut. Pengedara mobil cenderung berjalan pelan, dan suka tidak memberikan kesempatan untuk menyalip. Konyolnya, banyak pengendara mobil yang menjadikan rute dengan jalan seperti itu menjadi rute favoritnya untuk menghindari macet. Mereka menjadi sumber kemacetan tersendiri di jalan sempit.

3. Rasakan tinta Cumi-cumi

Ilustrasi asap hitam dari kendaraan

Ini istilah saya bagi kendaraan bermesin diesel yang mengeluarkan asap hitam pekat. Asap hitam pekat ini membuat sesak nafas sekaligus berhasil menghalangi pandangan saya ke depan. Oh, satu hal lagi, baunya yang tidak enak juga lengket di badan!

4. Kejutan! Ada lubang di depanmu!

Ilustrasi lubang di jalanan

Banyak pengendara mobil yang “mengangkangi” lubang di jalan. Saya yang berkendara di belakangnya jika beruntung kadang harus merasakan belaian lembut dari lubang tersebut tanpa punya kesempatan untuk maneuver.

5. Berjalan terlalu pelan

Ini sering saya temui, terutama di ruas jalan yang ramai. Mobil tersebut tampak seperti “road captain” dengan kendaraan lain di belakangnya yang harus sabar berjalan pelan karena tidak bisa menyalip mobil tersebut. 

Saya tidak benci membenci mobil, namun tolonglah pengendaranya mengikuti aturan dan berikan kesempatan bagi kendaraan lain untuk menyalip jika kondisinya memang memungkinkan dan aman bagi kedua pihak.

Ride On!